CHILLING NEWS, WARM-HEARTED CHEFS
The extreme freeze that hit California last month is affecting produce in our local markets. Quantities are lower, prices are higher. Some citrus I've purchased very recently isn't of the greatest quality; some citrus I want to purchase simply isn't around for the buying.
But it's California's farmers who are truly suffering. According to ag officials there, as crops fall to the effects of the freeze, farmers' losses could exceed more than $1 billion statewide. Indeed, restaurant chefs who partner with farmers in California to fashion their ever-changing, intensely seasonal menus, also are feeling the fallout. And they're pitching in to do something about the losses their culinary collaborators are facing.
Even as they've worked to change menus to adapt to what's suddenly not available, a host of big-name California chefs are holding special fund-raising dinners at their restaurants in the next week to benefit their farmer friends. It's a very cool thing to do ... in answer to times that got way, way too cool.
The California chef-farmer connection got me wondering how Shore chefs are doing this winter: Has the California freeze affected your menu-writing? Where do you source your produce? Are you working now, or planning to work with this coming season, any local farmers? Is the chef-farmer collaboration so vital to chefs in many big cities something you believe in or seek to achieve?
Speak out, please, and if you're running any specials that shout winter, tell us all about it, right here.
cheers,
Andy
2.7.07
But it's California's farmers who are truly suffering. According to ag officials there, as crops fall to the effects of the freeze, farmers' losses could exceed more than $1 billion statewide. Indeed, restaurant chefs who partner with farmers in California to fashion their ever-changing, intensely seasonal menus, also are feeling the fallout. And they're pitching in to do something about the losses their culinary collaborators are facing.
Even as they've worked to change menus to adapt to what's suddenly not available, a host of big-name California chefs are holding special fund-raising dinners at their restaurants in the next week to benefit their farmer friends. It's a very cool thing to do ... in answer to times that got way, way too cool.
The California chef-farmer connection got me wondering how Shore chefs are doing this winter: Has the California freeze affected your menu-writing? Where do you source your produce? Are you working now, or planning to work with this coming season, any local farmers? Is the chef-farmer collaboration so vital to chefs in many big cities something you believe in or seek to achieve?
Speak out, please, and if you're running any specials that shout winter, tell us all about it, right here.
cheers,
Andy
2.7.07
posted by Andrea Clurfeld at 12:19 PM
2 Comments:
I think the colaborative efforts that I often read about between California (most notably) chefs and farmers is wonderful. I own a small retaurant in Monmouth County, and would love to work with local farmers as well. Last year I used a local farmer for much of my produce, corn and tomatoes especially. Interestingly enough I paid retail prices, however this year I will seak out a wholesale deal. The problem for me is how to use the abundance of local produce? I don't mean coming up with creative ways to use it. I mean that since I have a small restaurant, much of it will go bad before I use it all! For instance Collards, New Jersey grows them by the ton. I love them, as do many of my customers, but they just won't sell out. What do I do? Buy them retail. Spend more per pound, because in the long run I'm saving money.
As far as produce in the winter, I haven't had a problem finding much this year. Some citrus hasn't been very good as you posted, so I'm avoiding them a little bit, except lemons of course. Where I may use citrus supremes, or Kumquats on a salad, we've just used other things, or not replaced them at all. My menu now has root vegetables and nuts on salads, braises as main courses, including short ribs, various shanks, and of course confits, made from duck and pork.
As far as where I shop? For specialty produce (citrus, shrooms, lettuces,chiles ect.) I use Baldor. For 'everyday' produce (carrots, onions, celery) I use a Mom & Pop local produce company, not that the produce is local, the company is.
Oddly enough I buy some produce at the local 'Big Box' store. Recently the have stocked beautiful Haricot Verts, Cara Cara Oranges, and at times unbelievable ripe strawberries. Plus great deals on bananas, and most shockingly of all fingerling potatoes.
By the way Andrea, thanks for the chance to post! (I will remain anonymous)
Anonymous Chef - please see my reply in a new subject post, above.
thanks!
Andy
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