MORE IN NEW YORK: ELEVEN MADISON PARK
Of all the Danny Meyer-owned restaurants in New York City (Union Square Cafe, Gramercy Tavern, The Modern, Tabla, Blue Smoke et al), Eleven Madison Park always seemed to me to be the one least talked-about, the one without a true buzz. That changed last year when an import from the West Coast, chef Daniel Humm, took charge of the kitchen.
The stately space that segues from bar to a series of elegant dining areas was packed past prime-eating-time last Friday night. Diners looked radiant and inclined to linger, not to leave this suddenly happening place. The Eleven Madison welcome crew was poised and graceful, the floor staff a little less so. I would have enjoyed more commanding commentary on the exceptional and wildly diverse wine list from the vino monitors, better elucidation on individual dishes as they were presented.
Many of the plates had a gripping vitality about them: Suckling pig confit could challenge the best Carolina barbecue for pure delicious flavor, while sturgeon, smoky and alluring with caviar, potatoes and egg, made me wish there was more of this fish around to enjoy. Marinated hamachi, plated with butternut squash and a splash of pumpkin seed oil, sets a new standard for the buttery fish. Humm also does a mean foie gras with Venezuelan cocoa and quince.
And so we stayed, our little party of five, with the rest of the flock at Eleven Madison Park, way past the witching hour. The specs: Eleven Madison Park, 11 Madison Ave. at 24th St., New York. 212. 889. 0905.
Now, please tell me where you're dining out or what you're cooking this weekend.
cheers, Andy
1.26.07
The stately space that segues from bar to a series of elegant dining areas was packed past prime-eating-time last Friday night. Diners looked radiant and inclined to linger, not to leave this suddenly happening place. The Eleven Madison welcome crew was poised and graceful, the floor staff a little less so. I would have enjoyed more commanding commentary on the exceptional and wildly diverse wine list from the vino monitors, better elucidation on individual dishes as they were presented.
Many of the plates had a gripping vitality about them: Suckling pig confit could challenge the best Carolina barbecue for pure delicious flavor, while sturgeon, smoky and alluring with caviar, potatoes and egg, made me wish there was more of this fish around to enjoy. Marinated hamachi, plated with butternut squash and a splash of pumpkin seed oil, sets a new standard for the buttery fish. Humm also does a mean foie gras with Venezuelan cocoa and quince.
And so we stayed, our little party of five, with the rest of the flock at Eleven Madison Park, way past the witching hour. The specs: Eleven Madison Park, 11 Madison Ave. at 24th St., New York. 212. 889. 0905.
Now, please tell me where you're dining out or what you're cooking this weekend.
cheers, Andy
1.26.07
posted by Andrea Clurfeld at 10:15 AM
2 Comments:
Andrea:
Just checking in on your Pinot Grigio research. Having a get together next Saturday, so I would love to share some of your selections with my guests.
Thanks in advance!
We dined at Labrador Lounge yesterday - you can't beat their bistro night on Thursdays, 4 courses for $30. The monkfish was a bit bland, the duck was wonderful. We'll be going back again soon.
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