IN A SOUTHERN STATE OF MIND

I spent several days in Charleston and figure I consumed about 40,000 calories. I say this not because I’m a calorie-counter or a glutton, but because when you’re visiting for a short period of time a city where food is a central focus, you feel obliged to sample all you can. Especially, I guess, if you eat for a living.

You do two dinners some nights. Not two full dinners, but a handful of dishes at a 6 o’clock rez, then a complete lineup at your 8 p.m. seating. You have a major lunch and you also do a mid- or late-afternoon feeding. During my time in Charleston, I packed in an oyster roast, a jaunt to the country for barbecue, a soul-food repast and visits to five restaurants.

I’ll admit, I’m a bit worn out. But as I write this, I’m wearing my Sweatman’s BBQ (Holly Hill, S.C.) T-shirt and dreaming of those oysters I sucked down at Bowen’s Island, which justly deserves all the accolades it’s received – including a James Beard America’s Classics’ award.

After I got back here to the Jersey Shore, I tucked into Nancie McDermott’s “Southern Cakes” (Chronicle Books; $19.95). It’s got a coconut layer cake on the cover and dozens and dozens of cake recipes within. Southerners are serious about their baking, devout in their baking traditions, and Nancie not only documents the backgrounds of all the classic Southern cakes, but makes the how-tos seem conquerable for a truly bad baker like me.

One thing isn’t explained that well, however: I’ve bookmarked “Southern Cakes” to note the recipes I want to try (Hummingbird Cake, Buttermilk Cake, Pear Bread, Daufuskie Island Carrot Cake), but I’m waiting till the temperatures register true fall before I rev up my oven. It was 85 degrees with 90-plus percent humidity in Charleston when I was there. How can those kindly, warm-worded folks bear to bake in that weather?

Yet they do. Baking season is year-round in the South. I’ve got to tip my hat to those bakers. Especially the one who made the buttermilk pie at Hominy Grill in Charleston. Fine pie.

So what have you been up to while I’ve been gone? What/where have you been eating?

Cheers,
Andy
10.10.07