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Sunday, September 30, 2007

HOW IT HAPPENS

Nothing is more satisfying to me than working on a dish for my Foraging column and then hearing from a reader that my recipe has found a place on his or her personal hit parade. I know it’s cool and chic to brag about being too busy to cook, but I believe in cooking. I believe in the sounds of chopping, the aromas of braising meats, the sight of fresh ingredients piled on kitchen counters and tables.

The recipes in Foraging are, primarily, based on what’s in season. From spring through fall, I spotlight Garden State produce and seafood, stalking the farms and fish markets to see what’s at its fresh best. I bring it all home, mess around in the kitchen and, after much experimentation, come up with the recipe that ends up in Foraging on Wednesdays.

It’s usually not a quick-hit business.

Sometimes, though, I do hit on a great recipe on the first try. Sometimes it takes forever. Sometimes I learn so much from the initial effort, I go into the second attempt much assured. That’s what I think is about to happen with what I started on tonight.

Sweet potatoes are starting to come in and apples, too, are arriving. So I bought a load of each at local farm stands today, then returned home to see what I could conjure. I could, I thought, simply layer slices of sweet potato and apples and bake as a basic gratin. Hmm, a little cream, butter, S&P and, presto, a lovely side dish.

But I decided I wanted a complete casserole, a main dish supper, not a mere accompaniment. I scoured my pantry and found something of companionable interest: black Beluga lentils.

Long cooking story short, I made a stovetop casserole of cubed sweet potatoes and apples, black lentils, coconut milk, sweet curry powder, ginger, garlic and lots and lots of fresh lime juice. I served it over jasmine rice. I really liked the way it tasted.

But, brother, was it ugly. The black lentils gave off a fatigues-green juice that mingled with the coconut milk and turned the whole dish the color of a swamp. I loved the way the sweet potatoes and apples played off the earthy lentils and totally dug the richness the coconut milk brought to the dish. I knew, however, that anyone who made the dish would fine it visually revolting.

So? What’s next for my seasonal experiment? Red lentils, which I expect will bring a sunny hue to the casserole without diminishing the taste. I’ll be working on that and when it’s ready for public consumption, you’ll read about it in Foraging.

That’s how it happens.

Reporting from behind-the-scene in my very own home kitchen, I remain faithfully yours,
Andy
9.30.07
P.S. I know y’all aren’t much into football, but I’m so happy Brett Favre snatched that TD record.

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Your recipes are enjoyed on this end so please keep working on them!

I miss Match Point and the recipes paired with wines. I like the Foraging format and appreciate knowing about in-season produce which is enjoying acclaim nationally, but wonder if you could bring back the wine recommendations with the recipes.

I'll keep reading for the lentil recipe with sweet potatoes.

October 3, 2007 at 5:43 AM  

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