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Friday, March 23, 2007

THE PIZZA QUESTION

You're not going to like my answer, I know, but I've thought and thought and I honestly can't do what you're asking.

Name my favorite place for pizza at the Shore, that is, now that Anthony Mangieri is mixing his dough up in the East Village at his Una Pizza Napoletana.

I know there are Pete & Elda's partisans, folks who swear by Vic's, Federici's, Freddie's, Panzone's - any of many pizza places in our midst. But I really got spoiled by Anthony, and his pizza is my manna. I can't name my favorite-now-that-Anthony-isn't-here place because I don't have one. That's the truth.

It's not that I can't love another pie. I fell in love with one just last night, only that thunderbolt hit me in Philly, at the new and irresistible Osteria at 640 Broad St.

"Have the one with the egg,'' I e-mailed another food-crazed pal early this morning. That would be Osteria's Lombarda pizza, which sports a runny egg waiting to be punctured over dots of sausage.

Osteria's pies are in the style of Puglia, with a thinner crust than Anthony's but similar charring and a wonderfully earthy-soulful flavor. There are also rustic and (I don't use this word lightly) perfect pastas: I can't choose a favorite between the gossamer ribbons of candele with wild boar Bolognese and chunky, yet light rigatoni with radicchio and Gorgonzola. Please don't ask me to choose a favorite. Please.

But I will ask you to consider ordering the wood-grilled octopus should you go to Osteria and the rabbit with pancetta served atop polenta. Italy isn't so far away when you sit in this dramatic high-ceilinged room whose side windows overlook a striking church complete with rose windows.

Where are you eating this weekend? And - or - what might you be cooking?

Cheers,
Andy
3.23.07

1 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

I'm lucky that someone's treating me to the Knife and Fork (great steaks) in Atlantic City - same owners and wonderful service that is at Dock's Oyster House...

People whom visit AC need to know there's more to eating than in the casinos - perhaps a list of hits such as Chef Vola's, White House Subs, Dock's, and others would help the cause of local restauranteurs as well as APP readers whom (obviously) hit AC up regularly but are tired of the same old buffet?

Just my .02,

Keep on eating...

PS - Blue opens in 6 weeks in LBI...

March 24, 2007 at 11:46 AM  

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