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Wednesday, March 14, 2007

GNOCCHI LOVE

The first question any restaurant critic is asked, when that critic's profession is revealed, is the one question that can't be answered with absolute honesty: What's your favorite restaurant?

Does such a beast exist? If you feel like eating sushi, if your hankering for toro is overwhelming, how could that lovely bistro with its brilliant cassoulet fare you well? If the desire for a prime burger leaves you suppressing a moo, can the spot with the engaging palak paneer actually satisfy?

So "favorite,'' for me and for many who eat for a living, is a relative term - relative, that is, to the craving at hand. (Or, rather, in mouth.) But for months now, I knew I wanted nothing but a big bowl of Marc Vetri's gnocchi as my birthday dinner. So last night, that's exactly what friends treated me to.

Vetri is a 34-seat humbly haute Italian restaurant on Spruce Street in Philadelphia. There is no restaurant I love more in this world, though there are dishes at other restaurants I certainly desire. If that speaks ""favorite'' to you, ya got me.

Now Vetri's gnocchi are spinach gnocchi and they're served in browned butter, sprinkled with slivers of sharp, tangy cheese. They're simple, they all but float away and they're the best, best, best I've ever eaten. I always knew I could eat them all night, and I almost did. But since the chef also had been having a field day curing all manner of pork products into exquisite salumi, since there was lamb and goat and bollo misto in the house, I did share my big bowl of gnocchi with my dinner mates to clear some room in my tummy. It was a spirited evening of eating.

Do you have a favorite restaurant? Craving-dependent or not?

Cheers,
Andy
3.14.07

4 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

belated happy birthday...

I have never been to Vetri - but I do have many favorites in terms of dishes - to limit to one restaurant would be almost cruel; that being said...

Shameless push for my favorite, with links at bottom for you to see:

Marsilio's in Chambersburg (Italian section of Trenton) is by far my most comfortable place to eat - anything veal there is heavenly, homemade pastas, and wonderful tiramisu - if you've never been, Alan and Bobby V treat everyone whom entered as family...

(for those worried, it IS safe, they do have valet parking, it's just off 195W to exit 2, to 206N to Chestnut St. It's located at the corner of Chestnut and Roebling - www.marsilios.com )

March 15, 2007 at 11:15 AM  
Blogger Unknown said...

belated birthday greetings

My list of favorite places are mostly driven by my cravings.
La Tapitia of La Hacienda for Mexican
Brennan's Steakhouse for the house scallop dish
Rutt's Hutt or any other northern NJ hot dog place for dogs
Smokey Bones BBQ for coleslaw
and most of all my mother's house for anything she cooks - it is all comfort food!!!

March 17, 2007 at 6:23 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hello there - I read your review this AM - well done...

Since we're a Web-driven readership, would you consider putting any restaurant you review's URL in your article summation so people can browse for themselves and/or obtain more information/directions, please?

Thanks.

March 18, 2007 at 8:58 AM  
Blogger Andrea Clurfeld said...

To those seeking Web links here to my reviews:

Let me talk to the powers-that-be at the office later this week and see what's possible. Do you have problems finding my reviews (Dining Companion runs Sundays and Eat Out pubs Fridays) on the Press Web site?

Anyway, if I'm given the go-ahead, I'll be delighted to oblige.

thanks for asking,
Andy
3.18.07

March 18, 2007 at 6:04 PM  

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