CATCHING UP

I sort of don't know where to begin, so I'll begin at the end. I feel like I've been away from you all for a long while.

Before I left New York City a couple days ago, a few of us, circling the Times Square area and waiting to see if our pal Pete could be sprung from work for a little chowing, walked hither and yon, thinking about Sushi Yasuda, but deciding that was beyond our NYC-depleted wallets, wondering about a new Italian place, but deciding that was too involved, rejecting barbecue, because it was touristy.

Put a bunch of food critics in a room, or merely on a sidewalk, and there are no easy decisions about where to eat.

But once someone, I think it might have been John T or Brett, said, What about that Turkish place?, we all united. We may have taken a rather circuitous route to Akdeniz, at 19 W. 46th, but we got to the skinny storefront and experienced bona-fide taste-bud arousal. There's nothing like zucchini pancakes, grilled octopus, fried calamari, Turkish meatballs (they're flat, not round) and a load of lamb to stop the arguing and start the chewing.

Anyway, this came somewhat on the heels of a totally sublime lunch at a swanky new Greek place called Anthos, at 36 West 52nd. I'm telling people it's nouveau Greek, cause it's got many of the familiar-to-Greek ingredients, but they're all refreshed, refined and rejuvenated. It's seasonal to the minute, too, with artichokes, ramps, sorrel, rhubarb, green garlic, favas, lovage, white asparagus and nettles threaded through the menu du jour.

Here's what I had for my raw meze starter: Tuna, with ruby grapefruit, fennel and coriander; yellowtail, with artichokes and crispy grape leaves; Taylor Bay scallops, with Mutsu apple, ramps anmd young chickpeas; Nairagi (a sweet, yet mild fish), with rhubarb, sorrel and chevre; cobia, with spring legumes and green garlic. Wow. All pristine, all doing justice to a country where water, water is half of everywhere.

I thought a couple of the fish entrees (which we passed around) were a tad overcooked, but that didn't prevent the concepts from speaking smartly. Olive oil-poached Atlantic halibut set in a fava broth shouts the season with ramps and morels; a generous dollop of caviar, a swish of yogurt, and you can't help but feel enshrined in happiness.

On Sunday night, we went to L'Atelier Joel Robuchon, over in the Four Seasons on East 51st. The next night, it won the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant. Though I have to admit I was quietly rooting for David Chang's Momofuku Ssam Bar to take home the Best New prize, L'Atelier is as close to perfection as I have had in this time zone. (Chang won, deservedly so, the Rising Star Chef Award.)

If you read what I wrote last fall about L'Atelier - well, I can't ask you to pardon the repetition, since there's always lots and lots new from Robuchon and his crew. This time the charms came from dayboat scallops in seaweed butter, served in their shell; cod poached in basil oil; caramelized quail stuffed with foie gras; sauteed asparagus and morels with soft egg and potato-chip-crisp Serrano ham; foie gras-filled ravioli in an Asian-herb broth; and steak tartare, with delectable hand-cut fries. If you can skip a mortgage payment without losing your roof, go. And, as I've said before, sit at the dining bar.

Will it seem too-too-too much if I told you that, after the Beard Awards' ceremony and reception, a gang of us went down to Ssam Bar (Second Avenue at 13th) to feast on roasted pig shoulder? We'd special-ordered it. It's my fantasy food. Don't miss the fried Brussels sprouts. Or the oysters. With that scallion-ginger sauce. If you want to throw someone a great 10-person eating party, that pig is your ticket. Invite me, maybe??


cheers,
Andy
5.11.07